When belaying in "guide mode," the tubers and plates turn auto-blocking. When your partner falls or rests, the weight of the climber is held mostly by the anchor and the belay device. Guide mode is helpful if you climb outdoors a lot because it reduces the holding power required from the belayer. This is when you belay directly off the anchor instead of your harness. Most of the mechanical brake assist devices only hold a single strand of rope and are not capable of double-strand rappelling (the most common method of rappel). These devices are not meant to be used without a hand on the braking side of the rope the belayers/rapppeller brake hand should always be on the brake rope. This is also called "assisted-braking" as the device must hold a significant amount of the climber’s weight this term does not include friction-adding "teeth" found on some tube style belay devices.Ĭonfusingly referred to as “auto-blocking” or “auto-locking” these terms wrongly imply the device will always, automatically, stop a fall or hold a climber even if the belayer/rappeller is hands-free. This is when the belay device significantly reduces the amount of holding power the belayer must exert to stop a fall and hold a climber. In grams, the weight, as stated by the manufacturer/brand. Descenderįor rappelling, not for belaying a lead climber or top-roping. Bonus: They tend to be very light weight. When simplicity is a must, or you started climbing before Tubers were the norm. Often referred to as “auto-blocking” but that’s not the official terminology because no belay device should be assumed to work automatically by itself, even if it feels like it does (or does most the time). These devices assist in stopping the rope when a climber falls or hangs on the rope. One reason they went out of popularity with recreational climbers is because they tend to create twists in the rope. Mostly used in rescue, canyoneering, tactical, work safety, or by old school climbers and rappellers. The most commonly used belay type also called an “ATC” or “tuber.” Other than a distinction between other belay device types, “Tube” is a rarely used term, most climbers just assume you're talking about this style when they refer to your "belay device." Figure 8
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